Slow down on a Shannon Cruise

Life is so busy. Between juggling work and home and kids and activities, it’s difficult to catch a breath. It’s even harder still to clear everybody’s schedules to pause and take some quality family time out from the madness and the noise.

A cruise along the Shannon might seem like a ‘bucket list’ item but a short break is more accessible than you might think.

Perceived obstacles include cost and the unpredictable Irish weather. But, if the forecast is decent and you can get the family all on the same page, it’s well worth looking into.

Companies like Carrick Craft provide cruisers of varying sizes for minimum three-night hires. It has marinas at Carrick-on-Shannon, Bellanaleck and Banagher and a boat for a family of four (four berth) costs from €670. Bigger boats are more expensive but could be shared by couples or families. Watch out for deals and last-minute specials too.

Try getting a family room in Dublin (or plenty other places) in the summer for three nights for that price. And your cruiser is your home for the weekend – pack up the car, the bikes, fishing gear, snacks, drinks, food - whatever floats your boat!

As for any fears about not having sailed before, cast them aside when you cast off. There are short tutorial videos on the basics and the staff give good instructions and a test drive (sail) before you set off. In summary, keep to the right of other boats and don't go too near the bank and rushes.

Full disclosure, the captain’s hat was handed over to himself in Carrick and he took to sailing like a duck to water but, out on the river, it was so simple even the children could do it (with supervision of course). And they just LOVED it! Even the locks were easy to navigate with the assistance of the friendly Waterways Ireland staff (but pay attention to the closing times).

Life on the water is much simpler - calm and peaceful. And discovering Ireland, in the sunshine, from the waterways rather than the motorways, is just amazing. Whether your jam is tunes on the Bluetooth speaker on deck, or sheer peace and relaxation, or both at different times, it’s your world your way on the water. And the most important rule – you must wave at every other boater you pass (it’s rude not to)!

There is some amazing wildlife and scenery too if you take the time to stop and look and listen and explore. Herons, kingfishers, ducks, swans, insects, fish (and fishermen), the natural soundtrack is a symphony of the Shannon.

Check out from the humdrum and fish from the deck or trawl slowly along the river, taking in the sun and sights. It is the perfect way to soothe your soul and recharge your batteries. There’s nothing quite like the thrill of hooking a pike and landing it on deck much to the delight and squeals of all present.

We followed the river from Carrick to Leitrim Village on the first evening. It’s fool proof with the aid of the map. Upon mooring in Leitrim, we felt quickly at home. If you’re not planning on cooking on the boat, there are plenty of local waterholes.

The Barge Steakhouse provides a traditional Irish welcome; good quality, no nonsense pub grub (its signature Barge Burger was a big hit) and a quirky beer garden. The natives are friendly too!

Fed and watered, time to turn in for the night. Accommodation on the boat was most comfortable and surprisingly stable!

Cycle along the blueway

Day two, after a quick brekkie on the boat, it was time to pick up some e-bikes from Electric Bike Trails with great rates for full and half days available.

The bikes are not like e-scooters but traditional bikes with a little extra pedal power in reserve for when required. Of course, you can bring your own.

We took the Slow Adventure Experience Jackalope Trail (mostly flat) along the blueway from Leitrim all the way to Drumshanbo and Lough Allen Adventure Centre. We could have done it in an hour easily but the scenery was so beautiful, we took our time.

The floating boardwalk at Acres Lake was just stunning and Jinny’s Tea Rooms were like something off the silver screen showing rural Ireland in a romantic and idyllic light. And the baked goods were to die for, straight from Jinny’s own bakery.

A kayaking adventure

Onwards to the Lough Allen Adventure Centre and another treat awaited. While it was a shame to see the adjacent hotel complex closed and somewhat run down, the star of the show remained the water.

Out on kayaks with our instructor Tojo Lazzari, we were treated to a guided ‘Drumshamazon’ style tour back up towards Acres Lake. We were at one with the water again, absorbing nature and the elements. Kayaking is fun but it can be quite physical (the youngest in our group, 11, needed a tow for a time on the way back). You can book kayaking or stand-up paddle boarding at the adventure centre and are in safe hands with Tojo.

And, if you want to soak your troubles away afterwards, take in the outdoor spa and wellness centre where adults can enjoy the hot tub, saunas and cold plunge pool.

Cycling back to Leitrim, we took a quick, unplanned pitstop at the Shed Distillery (home to the famous Gunpowder gin). There were some great summer vibes in the sunshine at the cocktail bar and outdoor seating area. I would have stayed longer and tried more of their tapas and curious cocktails if I still hadn’t to return the bike to Leitrim (turbo mode was needed on the way back!).

Drumshanbo; who knew it was such a hotspot?!

After all the cycling and kayaking, the boys’ tummies were rumbling and it was a one-hour cruise in the evening sunshine back to Carrick for the evening.

There is a huge choice of eateries in Carrick from pubs and restaurants to cafés and takeaways (you could even have a pizza delivered to top deck!).

Fine Food

Having heard rave reviews, we opted for the Red Bank Restaurant near the Dock. We certainly weren’t disappointed. The staff were super friendly and knowledgeable, the service was excellent, children were made most welcome and the food delicious. My only regret was, in the warm weather, my appetite wasn’t bigger. Having sampled the mouthwatering food, it was no surprise to hear that Sonata Horkan was named best chef in Leitrim in the recent Irish Restaurant Awards.

The menu was exciting, the food fresh and bursting with flavour, the presentation impressive and the cocktails were the cherry on top (they make a mean Mojito).

Spoiled for choice, the Jack the Lad pale ale battered haddock and the braised beef feather blade went down a treat. And the chicken wings were A rated by the younger diners. The best surprise? The prices were most reasonable, particularly considering the quality of produce and dishes on offer. We will most certainly be back!

And for a few drinks afterwards? Carrick is a thriving hotspot for nightlife and the buzz around on a Saturday night in May was just brilliant. Many pubs had live music and the atmosphere was fun and friendly.

Lough Key Forest Park

Day three and Lough Key Forest Park in County Roscommon was our destination. Cue some more stunning scenery on the Shannon in all its glory and natural beauty as we meandered up the river past Boyle and spent a relaxing couple of hours on the water.

We have been to Lough Key Forest Park many times before, and love it, but never experienced it from the water. Sailing into the marina, in the heart of the park, and stepping on to the jetty, we felt like celebrities.

It was lovely just to relax on deck and people watch as families enjoyed picnics, a kickabout, a dip in the lake or just relaxing in the sunshine.

There are multiple activities available in the park (both free and charged) from boat tours, walking and bike trails to Zipit Forest Adventures or the Boda Borg escape room challenges.

Treetop walk

Enjoying the slower pace of life for a change, we opted for the self-guided treetop canopy walk and the Rockingham Remembered Tour.

It took us through the history of Rockingham House, once a grand estate, previously known as Moylurg, the seat of the McDermott clan.

Sadly the house was destroyed by fire in 1957 and knocked in 1971. However, the Moylurg Tower, built on its ruins, and the treetop canopy provided stunning views of the park and lakes around.

Back to the boat for another couple of hours of cruising, fishing and relaxing. We never wanted it to end. We moored back in Carrick and, having enjoyed some pizzas and refreshments on deck, it was time to pack up the car and head for home. Our feet firmly planted back on the ground, our heads were filled with memories of a wonderful weekend and a promise to do it all again – perhaps heading south on the next occasion through Dromod and Rooskey and on towards Athlone.

The Hidden Heartlands is right on our doorstep and waiting to be discovered. What better way to experience it than from the water, enjoying all the upper Shannon region has to offer at your own pace.

I have heard about Lovely Leitrim my whole life. For shame, it’s taken me this long to truly experience it.

For more, check out Discover Ireland or Hidden Heartlands.