A living, breathing estate experience...

I lost my heart to Castle Leslie Estate, literally. I have been to many hotels in different counties and countries but none so authentic and full of character as Castle Leslie Estate in Glaslough, Co Monaghan.

From the moment you drive through the castle gates, you leave all your worries behind and allow the rhythm and magic of the estate replenish and revive your soul.

What sets it apart? Other estate houses that have been transformed into luxury hotels merely echo their former lives and history. Castle Leslie Estate on the other hand remains a living, breathing, working estate.

I don’t know why I was so surprised walking into reception to see a young woman in full horse riding gear – of course I had read the hotel had an equestrian centre – but the scale of it was impressive.

It’s not just a gimmick. One of Castle Leslie Estate's defining features is its internationally renowned equestrian centre. Riders of all levels can take lessons, enjoy scenic hacks through the estate or tackle cross-country courses.

I overheard one group of American horsey guests singing the praises of the team and how they are not just “playing” at it but among the best in the world.

While I had no urge to don a pair of riding boots and channel my inner Lady Mary Crowley, simply stroking and talking to these majestic animals was therapy in itself.

Watching the horses and riders move through the grounds added another layer of life and energy to the estate.

And the love of horses and wildlife is evident everywhere – in the décor, in the paintings on the wall. The 50 guest rooms in The Lodge are even named after the estate’s retired horses – Frosty, Pluto, Dillon to name a few.

Unusually, The Lodge also doubles as an art gallery – featuring the work of local artists - many pieces inspired by the breath-taking landscapes around, and all for sale.

The best way to unwind? Drop into the Victorian Treatment Rooms for a few hours. The relaxation and wellness spa features seven treatment rooms, relaxation areas and an outdoor deck with hot tubs and a sauna.

There are a variety of treatments available but some overnight packages include a 30-minute massage or facial. Therapists use the luxurious Voya range of products, an Irish seaweed-based skincare range, as well as the popular Eminence range.

And the staff – they really want to look after you and make sure you have a memorable stay.

Castle Leslie Estate has won many awards in recent years for being a great place to work – it shines through. There is a real family vibe throughout and a genuine love among the staff for the estate.

The porter even speaks fondly about the current custodian – Samantha (Sammy) Leslie – praising her taste and revealing how her own personal stamp is on the décor and furnishings.

Filled with antique furniture, rich fabrics and period details, the bedrooms are impressive. The best compliment I can give is it’s easy to forget you are in a hotel room.

Unlike many castle hotels, Castle Leslie Estate remains in the hands of the family that first settled here in the 1660s, giving it a lived-in authenticity that is difficult to replicate. Rather than feeling staged or overly polished, the castle is full of character, stories and the eccentric charm that comes with generations of family history.

The main castle is only open to the public at certain times – as it is in use regularly as a private wedding venue. It’s simply breath taking and would whisk any intending bride off her feet.

The estate grounds are the real star of the show. Walking trails weave through forests, along lakeshores and past hidden corners, making it easy to spend hours exploring.

From carpets of bluebells and wild garlic to mature woodland, Glaslough Lake and the boathouse, integrated wetlands and the Pinetum, there are plenty of natural features to discover and unspoiled views that seem unchanged for centuries.

The walled garden, which dates back to around 1850, is being restored; while other historical and architectural highlights include St Salvator’s Church, the Gothic Lodge and various ruins.

If horse riding isn’t your thing, there’s walking, fishing or even boat hire.

While the great outdoors provided nourishment for the soul, the food at Castle Leslie Estate is as good as I have savoured anywhere. The menu showcases the best of local produce – from Silver Hill ducks in nearby Emyvale to craft beer from Brehon Brewhouse and bread from Dinkin’s Bakery.

The food and service at Conor’s Bar didn’t disappoint. The sea food chowder is renowned and worth returning for alone. The crispy duck wings flew off the plate and the oriental slaw and plum dressing made for an impressive fusion of Irish and Chinese.

Being meat lovers, it was hard to resist the seasonal Irish lamb rump and the angus rib eye – each cooked to perfection – and with mouth watering sides and accompaniments.

Not that there was much room for dessert – the options were too tantalising to resist. We went for the Vanilla Panna Cotta with rhubarb and apple compote and the Baileys & Koffy Tiramisu with salted caramel ice-cream. Inspired.

Dining at Castle Leslie Estate is an experience in itself. Despite the opulent surroundings, there is no sense of pomp and ceremony. Guests can feel free to be just themselves. Service is attentive without being intrusive, and the atmosphere encourages diners to linger long after the plates have been cleared away.

A stroll around the estate or a trip to one of the old Irish bars in the village for an aperitif are a perfect way to cap off a magical day.

The pretty village of Glaslough feels very much like a natural extension of the estate itself. Cottages, old-world pubs and the meticulously maintained streetscape weave their way into your heart every bit as much as the castle grounds.

After a sound night’s sleep, it’s time for a breakfast fit for a king (or queen) and the options here are truly next level.

What ultimately sets Castle Leslie Estate apart is its ability to combine luxury with genuine character.

Many historic hotels offer beautiful surroundings, but few manage to feel so deeply connected to their history and landscape, and even fewer still find a way to take root in your soul.