No slowing down for local snail enterprise

A pioneering Cavan snail farmer has expanded his business to become the first and only Irish producer selling their own organic feed.

Established in 2015, Peter Monaghan has transformed what was a modest suckler operation inherited from his father into one of most successful and sustainable snail enterprises in Ireland.

When the Celt spoke with Peter about his latest endeavour he’s preparing to pitch his Inis Escargot to Adare Manor in Limerick, where organisers of the Ryder Cup are running the rule over what to serve the world’s best golfers and their illustrious guests when they arrive to tee off in 2027.

Already the snails Peter farms near Maghera are circulating ready for plate at some of the best and most highly decorated restaurants in the world.

Operating from a near one acre site, Peter’s company now produces over three million snails annually. From harvesting the highly sought after meat and mucin (better known as slime), to luxury snail caviar and even the excrement, Inis Escargot manages a complete circular system that creates no waste.

Peter’s journey to this point hasn’t been quick. Nor has it been straight-forward. In fact, it’s taken years of dedication, as well as trial and error to even get to this stage.

The same strenuous efforts have been made by Peter in coming up with his latest innovation, a custom organic formula feed that took nearly 18 months to develop and perfect.

Despite the opportunities presented, Peter found not a single Irish feed manufacturer willing to come on board. In a past life Peter worked in the animal feeds industry. He knows that a farmer using 20 to 30 tonne per year is nothing to be sniffed at.

So instead he looked abroad, eventually partnering with an organic European feed firm, and although Peter sells it on to others, he thus far refuses to take a profit.

“Right now, the cost of getting it manufactured and shipped is high enough without me adding anything to it,” Peter tells this newspaper.

It’s a pragmatic and long-term approach, the kind that had defined much of Peter’s thinking to date.

Peter’s early days after all were clouded by public scepticism and uncertainty, particularly when snail farming faced a backlash and negative press in some quarters.

Unfazed, Peter never wavered in his belief that snail farming could be a viable enterprise.

“All of our success to date, and anyone can see it, is based on cold hard facts,” Peter says, underscoring a philosophy that’s rooted in evidence and hands-on experience. “We’ll always hit a few bumps along the way, but you learn from them, get better, move forward.”

When others scoffed, Peter continued to work quietly on building his business.

Being championed by the likes of Chef Richard Corrigan in no small part helped build Peter’s confidence that he’s on the right track.

“People told me there was no future in snails,” recalls Peter. “But I’ve been able to show, without smoke and mirrors, that there’s a livelihood to be had from snail farming- one that’s sustainable.”

Today, Peter is more than a snail farmer. He’s a mentor too and the consultancy arm of Inis Escargot is also flourishing. Calls come in from across Ireland and the rest of Europe from budding snail farmers eager to lean on Peter for guidance. Unlike a decade ago, those newcomers now find themselves joining a growing network, not venturing out alone. As such Peter believes Ireland is among the best-positioned in Europe - abundant rainfall, verdant grasslands, and in close proximity to European markets - to take advantage of any further growth in demand.

Yet Peter warns that future success requires more than just good conditions.

“I won’t lie to anyone who comes to my gate. The first few years are tough. But there is still a pay-off at the end of the day, and more to come if you’re willing to stay at it.”

If Peter is crystal clear about anything it’s this: he wants nothing to do with cooperatives.

“I’d rather sell my business than do that,” he tells the Celt, citing poor leadership among those trying to use that particular business model as a way to gain foothold in the industry.

“You’ve people selling snail franchises who’ve never lifted a shovel, never farmed a snail. That’s a complete waste of time.”

Instead, Peter envisions a future built on small and independently owned farms scattered across Ireland - run by people just as passionate as he is.

Demand is growing, and Peter’s numbers show it. He now ships out tens of kilos - a far cry from the days of one or two-kilo orders. And yet, the business remains entirely in his hands. It ensures consistency, not to mention quality, but it also poses limitations.

Peter is aware that for Inis Escargot to scale upwards as he believes it can, he needs help.

“I need people I can train, who are willing to learn, and I can keep working with me long term,” he says voicing his frustration at the hiring processes.

Peter’s advertised for positions before, including one in the cosmetic sales arm- another significant growth area ripe with opportunity. But interest in the role has been disappointingly low.

“I put out a sales job for my snail cosmetics, and honestly, at a European level, that’s probably one of the most exciting careers you could get into right now. But we had one application- and they had no experience whatsoever.”

Peter knows that a thriving industry can’t rest on one man’s shoulders.

There’s a pressing need for government and regulatory support too.

While mortality rates on his farm are in the single digits, thanks to years of refining practices, others have not fared out as well, and without guidance animal welfare can always be an issue.

National bodies like the Department of Agriculture, Bord Bia, and Teagasc, Peter argues, need to stop “dipping their toe” and instead fully embrace snail farming as a legitimate agricultural opportunity. This means more than hosting conferences. Instead Peter proposes a gradual, strategic growth to the sector - bring six new farmers on board each year, provide them with the support and infrastructure they need, and let the sector evolve sustainably.

“Start small, start slow - you can achieve something that lasts,” he says speaking from a position of experience.

Inis Escargot therefore isn’t just a business as Peter sees it- it’s a blueprint, demonstrating what can be done.

“My farm is proof, that when you start small, start slow, you can achieve something that can last. The aim is to improve every year.”