Is Shantemon Cavan's most magical mountain?
Cavan has a few sacred sites. A good example is the Hill of the Three Gods at Knockbride. They say that the hill was named after the three ancient gods of craftsmanship. They were Luchta the Wright, Credne Cerd the bronze worker and Goibniu the metal worker. The trio are associated with historical Brigid from Celtic times.
Other mountainous and hilly sites to consider are Ballyheady mountain, about three miles from Ballyconnell, with its ancient cairn associated with the birth of Conall Cearnach. Further up the road, there is the border mountain of Cuilcagh, the surrounding geopark and its fascinating folklore. Between Bailieborough and Kingscourt, you have Lough-an-Leagh Mountain, which literally means the Lake of the Cures.
Around 2009, I brought my son Ethan, then aged four years, to the top of Shantemon at Castletara. We walked the steep route. He asked lots of questions about the place and it was a memorable day for my young son who thought Shantemon was a most magical place, and he still talks about it.
The finger stones pointing from the ground amazed him and I told him about Finn McCool and the O’Reillys and more. Incidentally, it is said to be the site of the county’s first established seat of learning. I would like to acknowledge Cllr Stiofán Conaty for suggesting Shantemon as this week’s topic.
The history of Shantemon (sometimes spelled Shantamon) was well documented by Castletara native and Anglo-Celt historical columnist Bridie M. Smith Brady F.R.S.A.I. of Corratubber, Castletara. She certainly believed it was a wonderful place. In 1910, she authored an article on ‘Historic Shantamon And The Secrets Of Its People.
Brady noted the mountain lies two miles from Cavan Town (heading for Cootehill) and formed part of the territory belonging to the ancient O’Reilly’s of Cavan. On top of this mountain the ancients assembled to choose the new O’Reilly chieftains, rulers of Breifne, and they had an inauguration ‘stone seat’ situated close to the five finger stones. Indeed, the five stones also known as Finn McCool’s Five Fingers are a noted landmark. The chosen leader was then taken from there to Tullacmongan where they were crowned as ruler. In the 15th century, the English Invaders destroyed the stone chair at Shantemon.
The finger stones remain elusive to the antiquarian and as Brady pointed out they resemble the fingers on a hand in terms of spacing and height. The forefinger she says is estimated to weigh about five tonnes. An old legend speaks of Finn McCool having to carry each stone all the way from Cuilcagh Mountain and, to prove this took place, the locals say that McCool left his footprint on a rock at Killyvanny.
The gentle slopes of Shantemon are known for its covering of heather and wildflowers and, at the time of her article, Bridie noted that the site in the early 20th century was popular with tourists and locals who came to relax with summer picnics when the weather was good.
Castle Field
Not far from Shantemon there is the Castle Field in the townland of Clonervy where once upon a time there stood Clonervy Castle. During the 16th century troubles the castle was burned in a fire. Brady wrote that, ‘no trace now remains of the ancient castle, although its commanding site, which was formerly surrounded by a deep trench can still be pointed out.’
Vitrified Fort
Did you know that Shantemon is a Vitrified Fort? Vitrified forts are a mystery. They’re not exactly something that you might see every day and therefore require an explanation. At one time it was thought that Shantemon had been an extinct volcano because of the surrounding melted stones. But it was used as a fort where people lived, and a wall was built around the site. But we found that the wall had been burned to such an excessive degree that it melted into glass. Experts concur the fire was intentionally lit all along the wall to burn and fuse the stones together for the purpose of making the structure stronger.
In 1817, the Rev Caesar Ottway came to Shantemon, Co Cavan, and it was here that he identified the first Vitrified Fort of its type in Ireland. Lost to the mists of time is the tale of the Picts, known as the Cruithne, who were thought to have once owned all the Vitrified Forts in Ireland. Ottway wrote up his research and delivered a talk to the Royal Irish Academy on April 28, 1817, and then had it published in the academy’s journal. At that stage vitrified forts had only been discovered in Scotland and England. He wrote of their ‘cause and construction,’ stating that ‘while some have given them a volcanic (explanation), others with more reason to have decided that they were of a human origin; but it is still undecided whether the vitrification of the materials has depended on accident or design.’
He spells Shantemon as ‘Shanthamon.’ He agreed, it was remarkably similar in every way to the Scotch Fort, except for the fact that the Scotch version is square, while the Shantemon version is round. This vitrified fort stands on top of the highest and most eminent part of Shantemon.
Ottway had been travelling through Cavan the previous summer and climbed to the top of the Mountain but just as he began his examination it started raining heavily. He ends his research by saying that he had passed on some examples of vitrified stone found on Shantemon. As for a detailed examination, he would leave it up to someone better qualified, since he was not a geologist, and being taken up with Church duties, such a study, he felt, better suited somebody with experience and time on their hands.
Shantemon shoes
Another time, in a column from 1933, Bridie told the story of the leprechaun shoemaker who ‘plied his trade’ on the vitrified fort next to the Finger Stones. But what caught her attention was the discovery at the time, of a sandal, made of stone found at Shantemon and added that 40 years prior to the discovery, six similar stone objects, one inch in diameter and an inch thick were found in the vicinity of the sacred site.
‘Shantamon’ Stream
by Bridie M. Smith Brady
Loved stream of Shantamon,
For all gentle rivers that through Breffney flow,
You partook of my life, its joys and its sorrows
Undisturbed happiness, youths reflections bestow.
Ah! many a little stream you could tell me
Of my childhood impatient, its shackles to free,
You found on my follies, with true heart you whispered
Life’s way it is slippery, as the banks you now see.
Sweet stream! You enthrall me
throughout every season
In springtime, when gay skylark
fresh beauties sing,
When fair summer, with flowers,
decks your pebbles and fringes
And the ripe fruits of Autumn
around you do cling.
When wrapt up in Winter’s cold
snows you still charm me
-The hoar frost on your bosom,
where childish feet slide,
But sweetest of all, my last wish,
in retirement,
To return to your loved stream,
and sleep near your side.
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