RURAL RAMBLES visits Blacklion

It's a Wednesday afternoon in Blacklion, and Alex Coleman, his camera, my tape recorder and I are sheltering under the canopy at Clancy's because it's basically 'pishing' down. "What a beautiful mist," is a more positive perspective, courtesy of Canadian passer-through, Mary Maher. She and Farrell McCarthy are among a coachful on a two-week tour of Ireland and they've stopped at the shop and filling station enroute from Galway to Monaghan. Their area of New Brunswick is twinned with Monaghan so they're looking forward to an itinerary there that includes lunch with the Mayor and a kitchen party in Tommy Makem's ancestral home. The call of the roots is in the DNA, Farrell believes. His Irish ancestors have been in Canada for over 150 years, "but I guess what is in your soul must come out and I just have a strong feeling for Ireland", he says. There's no shortage of passing trade in Clancy's of a rainy afternoon. Working on the deli counter, Bernie Fitzpatrick knows how to make a tasty tuna sandwich and how to give the Blacklion low-down. "There's four pubs; a little drapery shop; the market shop that's like a wee souvenir shop; there's MacNean's restaurant, obviously - it's what Blacklion is best known for, maybe even Cavan; then there's the Olive Grove restaurant with B&B; Flynn's the butchers; the bookies; an undertakers; a second hand shop." Even though it's changed since the downturn ("a lot of young ones have left to either go to England or Canada or Australia because there's no jobs"), she likes it and speaks of the community spirit that seems to be a trademark of rural towns and villages in Cavan. The Border is only a two-minute walk away, but despite the impression given by the abruptly changing signage there is no division. People would think nothing of going to a pub in Blacklion one night and one in Belcoo the next, says Bernie. Her colleague Tony McGourty, is from Belcoo, and can't speak highly enough of the beauty of his homeland. "You hear people talking about the Ring of Kerry, but there's as good here. I know you'd have to travel off the main roads to see it, but everybody talks about the Ring of Kerry so you feel you have to go there, and there's a ring around Blacklion, Belcoo, Boho that's every bit as good," says Tony. Fracking is a serious threat and about 100 attended a meeting in Belcoo about it the previous night, he tells me. "They're trying to ruin the countryside. Then they'll walk away and leave a mess behind them," is his no-frills analysis of the situation. At the butcher's, normally a fertile hunting ground for a bit of an oul' chat, Alex and I first hear mention of Harold Johnston. Described variably as "a local historian", "representative" and "a good character", he runs an old-style drapery shop and sounds like everyone's joint-favourite local businessman (along with Neven Maguire), but takes a half-day on Wednesday so we're out of luck. At the tourist office and gift shop, Margaret McCauley, too, recommends Harold for a chat. For her part, she can fill us in on the increase in visitor interest in the area since it got recognition as a UNESCO global geopark. "It has come now that there's a lot of local tourists, Irish tourists," says Margaret telling us of their interest in the Marble Arch Caves, the Cavan Burren, and Corlea Activity Centre outside Belcoo. The Cathal Buí festival is still going strong and traders have started a fair day every July 12. There's also the playground, exercise area and basketball court, and the swimming and water safety training on Lough MacNean every summer that attracts hundreds of youngsters. Above all, there's MacNean's Bistro. "You'd know the difference when Neven is open," says Margaret. "There's a sight of cars." Across the road in MacNean's, we meet Neven's uncle Frank Maguire, as the celebrity chef is away filming. Good manners and personality must be in the Maguires' DNA, and Frank has a welcome and a kindly chat for us. Neven's contribution to Blacklion has been "massive" acknowledges Frank (also speaking with warmth of this Harold Johnston who we'll be back to meet). "There are almost 40 people employed from the surrounding area both North and South. I think without Neven you could close down Blacklion. Even the pubs, there are four pubs would get a nice little turn from the restaurant." "We're very proud of Neven as a family," says Frank, a cattle farmer. "I just come in and walk around and keep an eye on things for him, just to see that everything goes well for him. It's not an easy business and to be able to pay staff every week." 'Uncle Frank' sits down with us for coffee and homebaked biccies, which he kindly says I can afford to eat a few of going by the look of me. As I depart once again to head eastward in the "beautiful mist", I reckon Neven's coffee was the perfect toast to Blacklion and its warm, open people.