Dara Klein’s amatriciana pasta recipe
By PA
“The first time I put amatriciana on the menu at Tiella I was incredibly nervous,” says Dara Klein. “It’s one of the four great Roman pastas (along with cacio e pepe, gricia and carbonara) and since it’s my favourite of the lot, I wanted to honour the original recipe as much as possible.
“Speak to any Roman and they are deeply protective of their pasta, perhaps because so much of the world has taken their culinary ideas for a spin. There are times when I feel deeply passionate about tradition and ‘authenticity’, and others when I wish the rules would relax. When it comes to amatriciana, I wouldn’t dare mess with it.
“The dish is said to have originated in the town of Amatrice, neighbouring Rome. Supposedly the movement of shepherds between Abruzzo and Lazio brought the dish to the city. Gricia predated it, made with guanciale (cured pork cheek), pecorino and black pepper, but with the arrival of tomatoes in the 16th century, the dish evolved.”
Ingredients:(Serves 4)
150g guanciale2tbsp extra virgin olive oil50ml white wine1½ tins of plum tomatoes1 fresh bay leafPinch of red chilli flakes120g freshly grated pecorino, plus extra for servingSea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Accompanying pasta shapes: spaghetti, rigatoni, paccheri, mezzi paccheri, bucatiniPasta weight: 80–100g per person
Method:
1. Using a sharp knife, carefully trim the skin off the guanciale, trying not to remove any of the fat, then cut into thin strips.
2. Put the olive oil and guanciale in a heavy based pan and cook slowly over a low heat until golden and crisp. Remove a quarter of the guanciale and set aside.
3. Add the white wine to the pan and cook out the alcohol over a high heat for two minutes, then add the tomatoes, bay leaf, chilli flakes, a five-finger pinch of salt and a generous grind of black pepper. Simmer over a medium-low heat for around 20 minutes, stirring every five minutes or so. Taste the sauce for seasoning and adjust to your liking.
4. Cook your pasta according to the packet instructions, reducing the cooking time by one minute.
5. While the pasta is cooking, add the pecorino to the sauce and reduce the heat to low. Allow the cheese to melt into the sauce – do not stir or agitate it too much or it may clump.
6. Drain the pasta and immediately add it to the sauce along with a few tablespoons of the pasta water. Toss the pan back and forth to create the mantecatura (emulsification). Taste again for seasoning and adjust if necessary.
7. To serve, sprinkle with the crispy guanciale and some extra pecorino.
La Trattoria by Dara Klein is published in hardback by Ebury Press. Photography by Caitlin Isola. Available now.