A boatload of history on the River Erne

From smuggling flour and hiding pigs to island funerals, cattle crossings and legendary races, the humble Lough Erne cot has a remarkable story to tell. Now, thanks to local heritage enthusiasts, another piece of the Erne’s history has been brought back to life.

“There are boats that carry people, boats that carry cargo, and then there are boats that carry the stories of an entire community,” says local river heritage enthusiast Tommy McMahon.

Few traditional crafts, he tells the Celt, are as deeply woven into the identity of the River Erne as the cot. For generations, these distinctive wooden vessels were a lifeline for island communities, transporting everything from cattle and turf to groceries and building materials.

“The cots became super important again [during Partition], as nearly everyone was smuggling,” Tommy recalls with a mischievous smile.

With essential supplies scarce, people had to find ways of getting by.

“You couldn't get fertiliser. You couldn't get enough to make bread, flour and all the rest. So people were going down to a place at Galloon, to a shop there, and bringing back tons of stuff by cot.”

Even pigs were smuggled.

“They'd give them a drink of milk first, and then porter. The pigs would be covered over, all snug as a bug in a rug, and they never opened their mouths!”

The cot's flat bottom and gently rising ends made it ideally suited to the Erne's shallow waters and island shorelines. It could be brought right up to the bank, allowing people and animals to climb aboard without getting their feet wet.

“When you get in, it's nearly a ramp for the cattle over there.”

Traditionally built using local oak and larch, cots were the product of generations of boatbuilding knowledge. Among the skilled craftsmen Tommy remembers are the Drumm family. Paddy Drumm developed a particular design known as the Laggan.

“Unless it was done exactly right, the cot wouldn't be right.”

Bernard McAvinney was another respected builder who'd visit a customer's home, assess their shoreline, before tailoring its design to the conditions.

Tommy even remembers funeral processions involving as many as 25 boats following the deceased across the water.

And then there were the races. One famous local tale tells of Lord Erne promising a reward if his man won a particular cot race. A priest had been banished, but when the competitor secured victory, Lord Erne was obliged allow the priest back to the parish.

The racing tradition was revived around a decade ago when members of Lough Erne Heritage took part in an event at Crom Estate near Newtownbutler.

The recently restored Belturbet cot was badly damaged after winter flooding left it sitting in water. Split down the middle, it required painstaking repairs, undertaken on the shoreline by Paul Quaile, a member of Belturbet Men's Shed.

“I had to join it again and use new timbers,” he explains.

Keen to preserve its original character, Paul sourced old oak and incorporated new sections where necessary.

A Lisnaskea native who moved to Belturbet around 30 years ago, Paul brings considerable experience to the task, having previously built cruisers and sports boats.

The restored cot is now proudly on display next to where Belturbet Boat Club meet, with the sign attached also crafted by members of Belturbet Men's Shed.

While Tommy brings the historical knowledge, Paul provided the necessary practical skills.

He is equally enthusiastic about the Men's Shed, describing it as a place where men can share skills, tackle projects and find friendship and purpose.

“It is a second chance for a lot of people.”

Tommy is encouraged by the continuing interest in traditional boatbuilding on both sides of the border. Four new vessels were launched at Enniskillen Castle in 2022, and he hopes a lighter, modern interpretation of the Erne cot might eventually help bring racing back to the river.

“It would be a wonderful thing to see, to have that happen, to see cots being used on the Erne again,” he says.